Author: Sechkina Julia
This summer does not spoil us at all. From this, even more dreams of the hot sun and warm sea. My dreams inspired me to create a set of leather accessories and I suggest you sew with me:
- Leather fish bag.
- Case for sunglasses.
- Headphone / wire holder.
- Light summer ballet flats for walking along the embankment.
The master class turned out to be large (I shot more than 300 photos), I didn't want to divide it into parts, so some of the photos will be combined into collages. The master class was done for about 2 weeks and at different times of the day, from which the light in the photo often changes. And yet, there are several photos where the details were photographed (cut photo), which eventually became different - don't be afraid of that! During work, something had to be changed, but all patterns are made taking into account of all changes.
Let's get to work - a fair wind for us
1. Our first product will be a fish handbag, since it was thanks to it that the whole set was “born”. It is both the most difficult and the most interesting.
Work always begins with a sketch and drawing of the future product, as well as the selection of the necessary materials.
All our products will be made of genuine leather, two colors: blue and yellow (sea and sun).
We will have a lot of tools in our work, I will not list, they will all appear in due time on photographs.
Next, we build a pattern, for this we cut our fish into pieces
We add volume, take into account the width of the seams, think over how we will sew the bag and how to turn it out later and create a pattern:
All patterns are drawn and scanned in A4 format.
We cut out all the details:
Since my yellow skin is a little thin for a bag, I seal it with a tough adhesive doublerin. I do it with an iron. Ironing the skin only from the inside out, on the "clap" mode and be sure to without steam!
After compaction, we thin the edge of the skin so that the product turns out well and the seams do not puff up.
The head of the fish (blue skin) is made of thick chrome leather, so we do not thicken it, and we thin the edge more than on yellow skin.
Now we are engaged in fins. We put the upper part of the fins on a piece of leather and stretch them around the perimeter. We do this so that the edges of the fin are the same after the final trimming.
The end of the blue leather is white, so we mix the paint of the desired color and paint over the end. I do this with water-based acrylic paints, which do not wash off after drying.
After the paint has dried, we process the edge with SMS powder. I dilute it in water, mix it for a long time to dissolve all the lumps and cover the end with a thin layer and rub it with a slicker (a wooden "stick" for polishing the edge). SMS powder gives a transparent smooth surface that looks beautiful and protects the end of the skin from getting wet. This is a rather painstaking and routine work, but it makes our product more beautiful and professionally made.
While the fins are drying, we sew the head of the fish.
The upper part of the head consists of two halves - this allows us to make the volume of the head.
We connect the parts together, sew, glue the seams, tap off and make a beautiful stitching.
About glue - I hardly use it, and I paste up all the seams and fix them with double-sided tape. It is convenient and reliable if you need to glue and sew immediately.
Now we are stitching our yellow parts of the fish (except for the abdomen). Do not forget to insert our dried finished fins inside - the two upper ones.
We are not stitching the entire part of the blanks, they do not match with us (you can see from the photo). It is convenient to mark in advance on the skin the lines of the beginning and end of the stitching. We sew from the beginning of the ponytail to the head. Since the product is very “curvy”, and the fin (yellow) is narrow, then for better eversion and a smooth seam, after sewing, we go through the edge with zag-zag scissors. Just don't need to do it too close to the edge!
And again we glue the seams and tap off.
Since we already have volume, it is convenient to use an anvil to smooth the seams. I have it with a sharp nose. It is convenient to put a blank on the spout and tap it off. After that, we make a beautiful finishing seam along the "ridge" of the fish.
We return to the head of the fish again. We got two from three parts and now we need to sew on a zipper.
You can also take a metal zipper, but in this case I used a detachable one (necessarily, otherwise it will be very difficult to sew) and a metal slider. As I later saw in the end, the lightning still had to be matched to the color of the head (blue) or yellow, the red still “knocks out”, but this thought came to me at the end of the journey.
We leave the tails of the zipper longer so that it is convenient to put on the slider.
We check how the lightning works for us.
Everything closes perfectly and the two parts are symmetrical, there is no skew!
Now it's time to work with the lining.
My lining is very dense Oxford, so there is no need to seal it. We cut it out, iron it, find the middle on the lining and on the leather part and stitch it - do you get slippers?
On rounded places we make notches with a knife or tweezers, so that, again, the product is easier to turn out. In this case, it is better to make cuts rather than using zig-zag scissors.
We turn it out, tap the skin with a mallet (be careful not to damage the zipper) and make a beautiful perimeter stitching.
Here's what we got:
We do this with the second part of the "shoe".
Now we need not forget make fish eyes (I almost forgot). My eyes are metal holniten, you can sew on interesting buttons, buttons or glue thermo rhinestones.
We connect the center of the inner part of the head and the outer center of the yellow back - stitch and turn it out.
We do the stitching. Watch out so that the lining does not fall under the needle.
Lining not sewn (yes, this will require some resourcefulness or a columnar typewriter (I don't have one, I only sew on a straight-stitch).
We do the same with the second part.
Here's what happened:
Now we connect the two parts of the fish facing each other.
And we are stitching. The lining is again not used anywhere - follow!
After we have sewn it, we put on the slider and the ends of the zippers (on both sides) are stitched so that the slider has nowhere to go.
We turn it out!
This is the most difficult, long and painstaking stage of work. You need to turn it out as carefully as possible, but at the same time persistently! You may need additional tools (I often use a thick, large brush with a blunt, rounded tip).
The fish is turned inside out!
But that's not all - we make handbag straps.
The bag is small and light, so we make the straps thin and simple.
We will have two of them - for carrying the bag in hand and on the shoulder / over the shoulder.
The length of the short strap I got 45 cm (you can take a smaller one), the long one - 135 cm. I did not set the regulator, I measured the belt length that was comfortable for myself and for my height (164 cm) and the taste turned out to be 135 cm.The width of the strap is 3 cm, which we fold in half, so that in the end the belt is 1.5 cm wide.
We make straps for the half rings, which we attach with holniten to the purse.
Now we turn out the lining and sew it up with a blind seam.
We hang on the handbag straps, "decorators" and rejoice at the finished handbag!
The fish bag is ready, it's time to rest a little on two easy-to-make products - a case for glasses and a holder for headphones.
2. Case for glasses
We cut out a blank for the future case. It is made of a single piece of leather and you can make an applique, a drawing, embroider something on it, but I still haven't rested enough after my bag, so I made the case as simple as possible.
The leather is the same chrome as on the bag. Very dense and tough - just what you need for a case!
We do a stitching along the top and bottom of the workpiece (yes, I love stitching), put in glasses and outline the place where the button will be.You can sew on / put on a magnetic lock, but I chose the button, as it is fast and functional, and my skin is tough enough not to bend too much under the pressure of my finger when the case is closed.
Install the button, fold the case and sew the "ears" on the sides. We leave the threads longer in order to make reliable and beautiful bindings (the photo did not fit, look at the final photos).
3. The headphone holder is an even simpler design, but very useful
Who faces the problem of tangled wires in a bag or suitcase? Holder is a great solution to this problem.
We cut out one part of the "skeleton fish" and, by analogy with the fins in the bag, we sew it to a piece of skin, but
I draw your attention to the fact that it is not necessary to flash it completely around the perimeter, but in two places to leave 0.5 mm of unstitched space, we need this in order to make cuts in the skin through which we will thread the wires.
Just like the fins, the ends of the holder can be painted over with paint.
The holder is ready!
4. Light ballet flats for walking along the embankment
To complement our marine look, I decided to make ballet shoes that are easy to sew, look spectacular (especially in a set with a handbag) and wear nicely!
The pattern I did not fit on one sheet, but everything is drawn in proportions, so print two A4 sheets and substitute the parts to each other.
My pattern is made for size 38, the size can be easily reduced or increased if necessary.
In order for the shoes to sit well, it would be nice to make a model of the shoe out of paper and try it on - you may need to reduce or enlarge some parts of the pattern.
When the pattern is approved, we cut out two main details. (remember specularity) and two insoles.
I'm almost out of blue leather, so I'm doing everything with yellow, although the blue insoles would have looked more contrast.
We glue the insoles inside and stitch along the perimeter of the insoles. Then we do the stitching along the entire perimeter of the shoe (this is where the soul roamed) and we make cuts so that the strap can be inserted and “buttoned” the shoes. The two slits will keep the shoe securely on your foot, just don't make them too big and put a seam along them.
Now we glue our "fingers" to the tape, but we do it on the leg in order to correctly calculate the location of the toes, taking into account the width of the foot and the instep. Sew the "fingers" to the top bar. After that, we cut out the two upper planks of blue leather, which will cover all our seams.
We collect and sew on our shoes.
Here's what happened:
We put our shoes on glue, on the sole, which we previously cut out to our size.
The set of leather accessories is completely ready
It turned out to be bright and very unusual! And also convenient! Firstly, everything is done individually, for yourself, and secondly - functionally! The handle of the bag allows you to carry it both on the shoulder and in the hand, and to fasten the short handle together on one half ring, making the bag a purse. And even, you can wear short the handle on the shoulder and the handbag will become a backpack.
The weather has not yet improved, so a full-fledged sunny photo session did not work.
At the risk of catching a cold, we managed to take only one photo, but we still have time to "walk" the set and amaze others with our products.