How To Make Tall Beds: Very Useful Ideas

Advice 2023

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How To Make Tall Beds: Very Useful Ideas
How To Make Tall Beds: Very Useful Ideas
Video: How To Make Tall Beds: Very Useful Ideas
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You will be surprised at your past doubts - whether to make high beds in the country … Your back will be grateful to you - you just bend over slightly to take care of the garden. Your knees will thank you - you can just sit on the edge of the garden and do your garden. Your plants will thank you - no more competition from weeds or nearby fruit trees. Your land will be grateful to you - you do not trample it and ennoble it with humus. Your tall-bed garden can look beautiful, comfortable, and reward you generously.

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1. First, we must mark the place for the beds. The usual bed width is 1.2 m, the length can be any. We mark the rectangles of the required size on the ground with sand.

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2. We collect high beds. The high bed has no bottom and consists of posts with grooves on all four sides and boards with corresponding grooves. You can buy ready-made garden fences or make them yourself. For fences, it is better to take hardwood, because Conifers release resin, which can unnecessarily affect the composition of the soil. We check the horizontal position of the garden box with a level.

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3. We lengthen the high beds. Because the design of our beds is modular, we can lengthen our bed from either side with one more module.

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4. How to protect a high bed from rodents. Even if you have not come across moles and other underground garden pests in your summer cottage, it is better to provide for the protection of your garden right now than to unsuccessfully fight this rodent later. At the bottom of each box we put a metal mesh so that it goes slightly over the edges of the fences.

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5. How to protect the soil on a high bed from leaching into the main soil. To do this, we use ordinary packing cardboard in two layers so that it covers the entire bottom of our garden box. If there are not enough whole pieces, we use cardboard scraps - we fasten them with a stapler to the main piece so that the cardboard at the bottom of the box does not move when the soil is poured.

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6. The soil for tall beds should be light, crumbly and fluffy. You can easily check its quality by poking your finger into the ground - if it goes down to the third joint, this is the norm. Peat or compost can be added to improve the composition of the soil. We put the soil in the garden box, check its horizontal level, water it to compact it a little. During the season, we will need to add some soil.

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7. Irrigation system for high beds. It is planned to fix a garden hose with irrigation nozzles along the contour of the high beds: we need 90 and 180 degree dividers.

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8. Trellis for high beds. Because the ground in a high bed is loose, then it will not be possible to install the trellis in it, therefore we fix the trellis made of pvc pipes into the ground next to the garden box. We pull nets for climbing plants - cucumbers and beans on the trellises. For tomatoes, we install light supports from a steel bar.

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What you need to know when arranging a high bed

1. Try to protect high beds from strong wind and heat by creating partial shade for them with trellises of flowers or tall shrubs.

2. The long side of the bed should face south - this way the plants will be evenly lit, otherwise taller plants will shade others.

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3. The density of planting on a high bed is twice that on a regular bed. This is how plants fight weeds and create a humid microclimate for foliage.

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4. High beds with bumpers will allow older people or people with a problem back to take care of the garden.

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5. High bed - warm bed. Such a bed warms up faster in spring and if you make a mini greenhouse on its basis, it will surprise you with an early and generous harvest.

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6. Divide the long, tall bed with cross-braces into square segments to reduce soil pressure on the sidewalls of the bed.

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Fences for high beds

1. Most often, wooden fences are used for understandable beds. There are several points here - do not use boo wood, especially sleepers, which may contain harmful chemicals. Do not treat fresh wood with protective products if you are not sure of their complete environmental friendliness.

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2. A wattle fence as a fence for a high garden bed. For all its environmental friendliness, such a fence has three significant drawbacks - the soil in the garden bed dries quickly from the wind, proper thermal insulation of the bed is not provided, the soil can spill out through the cracks. Everything is fixable - use a layer of double cardboard around the inner perimeter of the fence. Environmentally friendly, the air gap between the sheets serves as thermal insulation, the earth no longer spills out.

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3. As a fence for a high bed, you can use a metal profile, including from an old roof or fence.

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5. You can make fences for a high bed with your own hands from brick or concrete. This is a very good option, but keep in mind that concrete will affect the acidity of the soil in the garden bed for 2-3 years.

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6. The best fences for high beds are plastic. They do not emit anything of their own into the soil, excellent thermal insulation, long service life and the ability to set any shape of the beds, in contrast to standard rectangles of beds with wooden fences.

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7. Fences for a high bed made of scrap materials. You can make the sides of the beds from bottles laid like bricks on concrete mortar.

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Why do we need high beds

High beds allow you to increase the area for the garden because uncomfortable slopes or poor or weedy soil can be used. Tall beds allow you to control weeds and soil erosion in an environmentally friendly way.

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Such beds warm up faster and give an earlier harvest. They allow more economical use of moisture for irrigation.

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Various types of high beds

In addition to the traditional high beds with high sides, there are several other types of high beds.

1. High circular bed. Consists of a round frame with a path to the center of the garden bed. This form of a high bed is also called a "keyhole".

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Branches, roots, paper, compost are placed at the bottom of the bed. In the middle of the garden there is a tunnel for fresh organic waste and water.

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This design of the bed provides the necessary moisture and constant soil enrichment.

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2. High bed without fences. When arranging such a bed, the trunks of trees (not conifers), branches, roots, snags are laid in the first layer into the ground at a shallow depth; the second layer is this removed sod from the place where you make a bed, laid with grass down; the third layer 20-30 cm of the main soil mixed with humus.

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For irrigation of bulk high beds, an irrigation irrigation system is used, when water comes from a ditch between the beds - a good option for vegetable gardens flooded in spring, or you can use the drip irrigation option when water enters the garden from mini terraces.

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The paths between the beds are covered with straw or large sawdust. Never step on the ground in a high bed - this will compact it and make it more difficult for plants to get moisture and nutrients.

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Tall beds of this type can be used not only for a vegetable garden, but also for growing shrubs and fruit trees, if you have problem soil for them in your summer cottage. The service life of such a bed (until the first tree layer with the trunks is completely rotted) is 20-25 years - this period will be enough for any fruit tree.

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Do not spare the space for paths between high beds - so you can always call in there with a garden wheelbarrow both for harvesting and with a new portion of humus. Have pity on your back - use a wheelbarrow.

If your tall beds are near fruit trees, you may need to set up a root barrier before breaking out the beds - dig a trench, cut the root when approaching the beds, install a metal sheet in the trench that will prevent the root from growing in that direction, and cover the trench with soil.

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Learn more about tall beds through your own experiences. There are many interesting finds, experiments and new discoveries in this topic for every gardener.

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