Author: Olga Yakimova
I am glad to welcome you, dear craftswomen!
For a long time I was going to do a master class on the topic of flowers from fabric, but all hands did not reach. But before the new year, my own website started working, which required (and continues to demand!) Filling, and then just the long New Year's holidays - assistants showed up at home, and I decided to take advantage of this wonderful circumstance?
As with any fabric flower, in this rose the result depends on the fabric itself. The peach rose in the main photo is made from toile. In MK, I used poplin (to be honest, I don't really like it, but it happened).
I'll make a reservation right away - this master class is designed for those who already have at their disposal blooms, impregnated fabric (factory or independent) and have minimal basic skills in flower making. Dear craftswomen, do not be offended, but in this MK I will not tell you how to properly dye fabric, how to make leaves and how to put gluing on a rose. And not from harm at all? The fact is that this rose has one charming zest, which makes it both complex (until you figure out what the secret is) and simple (when you already know the answer) - that's what I want to tell you about?
So let's get started.
1. First you need to make patterns. In the photo below there are 3 details - black - a future flower, white - a leaf and gluing.
2. Important! The fabric should be two-sided (e.g. deshin, toile, josette, crepe de Chine, etc.)
Cut out the gluing, 9 (or as many as you want) leaves and 5 pairs (or 10 pieces) of petals. (Do not forget that all the details are cut obliquely!) Here, by the petals, I mean this very wrong circle or square? And we place this detail on the fabric directly (so that each individual petal is at an angle of 45 degrees). I folded the fabric in two layers, so there are pairs in the photo. My glue had been painted for a long time and not from this rose, but I didn’t cut out another - why should I go to waste?
3. The next important step is painting. Here it must be remembered that there are no absolutely monochromatic petals in a living flower. Therefore, all sorts of different accents will not be superfluous - the main thing is that the color scheme is harmonious?
4. After the petals are dry, you need to fold them. First in half:
5. And then half again? Thus, we "grope" the middle of the rim. Out of 10 corollas in 4 we make a hole in the middle with an awl (these corollas will form the middle). Is this where we have the opportunity to hide flaws? If some corolla is badly stained, or gets dirty somewhere, then we boldly pierce it?
6. When all the corollas are folded and the necessary pierced, we take up the scissors. We cut our petals along the fold lines, not reaching the center of about 0.5 cm on each side:
7. With a 2.5 cm bullet we process 4 punctured corollas, as shown in the photo:
8. Change the bun to a smaller one - 1.5 cm. You can use other sizes of buns - it all depends on the pattern you make. The smaller the pattern, the smaller the “gauge” of the tool.
The next step is to process 6 unpunctured corollas. Here we will process not the whole petal, but its halves: first bullet one side of the petal, then flip the whisk on the wrong side and bulim the other half petal… We process the neighboring petal in the same way, only in mirror image.
9. Note that the "convexity" and "concavity" of the petals coexist:
10. Now we have these two heaps and they are missing something:
11. Do they lack edge processing? We take hot tweezers and pass them along the edges of all the petals. At 4 punctured corollas we process all the edges one way (Push):
12. On "wavy" corollas bend the edges in different directions in this way: one petal is from oneself, the other - to oneself (more precisely, we turn it over, and also from oneself))). Pay attention to the photo:
13. On a couple of wires bent in half, wind a cotton core. Of course, you can get it different, but try to fit it in volume to the petal:
fourteen.I like to make a cotton center "with a spout" so that it is convenient to plant the very first petal (as you might have guessed, the hour has struck for our "pierced" corollas):
15. Second, we glue the opposite petal. Behind them are also the 3rd and 4th.
16. And now from just one corolla we have quite a pretty bud? If we stop at this and glue the glue and leaves, it will be very nice (in the photo with a peach rose, just such an option):
17. But since stopping halfway is not in our rules - let's continue! Glue the 2nd whisk in the same way. Here the bud is already more plump, and again it would be possible to stop, but….
18. We are gluing the 3rd whisk! Do not forget to look at our bud in profile - the middle should not stick out above the bud, and should not be heavily recessed:
19. Here is our bud became even more plump and rounded:
20. Well, the last jerk is the 4th rim. We glue it a little looser than the previous one. For this, we glue only the lower third with glue:
21. Here's what we should get (it can be a little more loose, but it shouldn't be denser):
22. And now the same "secret" because of which this whole MC was started? Place a drop of glue in the center of the wavy corollas and fold in half:
23. In the middle of the resulting half-whisk, put a drop of glue, fold in half again (with a slight shift to the side) and look closely at what we got? And it turned out that all our edges twisted in different directions began to look in one direction, and the adjacent bulges became opposite?
24. We turn our quarter so that the "curl" on the petals looks down (no, if the fabric allows, then you can experiment!))) And coat the base with glue:
26. And so all 6 corollas:
27. Is that all, actually? It remains only to attach the leaves and pasting. There are many options for processing leaves, this time I wanted to make them like this:
28. That's the end of the fairy tale, who mastered - well done!)))