Do-it-yourself Compartment Doors For A Dressing Room

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Do-it-yourself Compartment Doors For A Dressing Room
Do-it-yourself Compartment Doors For A Dressing Room

Video: Do-it-yourself Compartment Doors For A Dressing Room

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Video: Simple DIY Door Makeover (that we almost ruined...) 2023, January
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Sliding doors for dressing room
Sliding doors for dressing room

This niche used to have a built-in wardrobe with doors that looked very cheap. There was always a desire to establish something more decent. Researching the prices of ready-made coupe doors upset me, they were too expensive. I decided to make such doors myself. What came of this, I will tell you in this article.

I assembled the doors entirely by myself, using simple tools and a special tool called the Kreg Jig. The Kreg Jig is essentially a jig for angled drilling. I was given this conductor for my birthday. In this article, I will also show you how you can use the angle drilling jig. I was satisfied, the conductor is easy to use, and the result looks professional.

Stage 1: Planning

It has been about a year since I made and installed these doors, so I have no original drawing left and cannot show it to you. Therefore, I will simply describe the preparation process.

I measured the width and height of the opening in the dressing room, drew a sketch of it. To ensure that the two sliding doors overlap, it is necessary to determine the middle of the opening and draw it on the sketch. Now you need to determine the width of the board that you will use to make the doors. I bought a board called aspen shelf-board. For the bottom horizontal bars, I used the full width of the board, for the vertical uprights, I cut the boards lengthwise. Now, to determine the width of the door, I added ¼ of the width of the board to the distance to the centerline, i.e. half to half. This guarantees us the necessary overlap of the two doors. In fact, it turned out not perfect, since the opening itself turned out to be crooked.

Almost any design can be made in the middle of the door. I chose the drawing so that it resembled the Japanese shoji screen we had in our bedroom. For filling, ordinary cellular polycarbonate was used. Now it is sold in almost any building hypermarket. This material allows light to pass through, but at the same time it is not so transparent that you can see your things in the closet. Compared to regular glass, honeycomb polycarbonate is very lightweight, easy to work with, and looks great, especially when backlit.

List of materials

  • Board
  • Cellular polycarbonate
  • Sliding door mechanism
  • Self-tapping screws

Tool list

  • Roulette
  • Gon
  • Level
  • Drill
  • Craig Giga
  • Knife
  • A circular saw
  • Pendulum saw (trimming)

Stage 2: Assembling the frame

Door frame
Door frame
Angle drilling jig 1
Angle drilling jig 1
Jig for drilling at an angle 2
Jig for drilling at an angle 2
Jig for drilling at an angle 3
Jig for drilling at an angle 3
Jig for drilling at an angle 4
Jig for drilling at an angle 4
Angled holes
Angled holes
Clamp
Clamp
Assembly angle
Assembly angle

Now the fun begins. The conductor I mentioned earlier plays a major role. The kit includes the necessary clamps and self-tapping screws, but there are not many of them, so you will have to buy in addition. The screws in the kit have a special head, so this is also included in the kit. I will not write detailed instructions for using the Kreg Jig, everything can be seen in the photographs. I'll just leave a few notes.

Assembling the frame, it's better not to do it on the floor, as I did. Since the bars can move relative to each other and eventually the frame will be deformed. It is best to have the corner you are working on hanging from the table. The boards will lie in the same plane and after aligning with a square, you can twist them. It is very important to maintain a right angle!

Stage 3: Installation of compartment doors

Guide rail for compartment doors
Guide rail for compartment doors
Roller
Roller
Roller 2
Roller 2

I bought a sliding door kit from a local building hypermarket. The kit included a top rail and 4 adjustable suspension rollers.

Mark and drill holes in the opening for attaching the rail.

To fix the rollers, you need to step back from the edge of the door a certain distance, if it is not indicated in the instructions, then estimate by eye how much will be enough to evenly distribute the weight of the door.

The kit also included a bottom rail to keep the doors from swinging, but I still haven't used it.If you use it, it is not always necessary to screw it to the floor, it may be enough to fix it on double-sided tape, suddenly you want to change something in the future.

Stage 4: Internal "drawing"

Doors to the dressing room
Doors to the dressing room
Doors to dressing room 2
Doors to dressing room 2

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